Mkomazi National Park trip. (Oct 2012)

It took us less than half an hour to fall in love with Mkomazi. The dryness, the harshness, the solitude. Driving along the mountains of the Pare in the bush of Mkomazi, we were content to spot what wanted to be seen. The first thing we saw were Ostriches in the grasslands near Dindira and behind them a Gerenuk, identified by it's long neck and forward arching horns. They were in the distance and were spotted thanks to a powerful pair of binoculars.

Mt Rada and the horizon streching into Tsavo NP, Kenya

On the circuit around Dindira Dam, there were signs of Elephants aplenty. We saw a large herd of Eland and zebras now and then. We stopped at the hill that overlooked Mt Rada and into the vastness stretching into Kenya. Lake Jipe was to our left and stretches of wild, small bush for miles and miles. It was a breath-taking view! We went on over to the observation point and took our lunch on the rocks there over looking the Pare and Dindira area. It was an afternoon warm with the sun and birds and little lizards scuttering around the rocks. A soft, cool breeze echoed solitude and suddenly, I was over come with a feeling of absolute contention.

Lunch on the Kopje! Cheese, Crackers, Avocado and Tomatoes  - Bush Gourmet!

As we came down a rocky slope, our land cruiser cautious on the path, we saw a bush buck prance away into the thickets and upon reaching the bottom, a herd of Impala does guarded by a beautiful, horned male. It seemed that upon traversing that rocky slope and coming down the mountain on the other side, we were really on our own. The sun slowly sinking towards the horizon cast beautiful light on the mountains and the ground glowed ochre. Roads diverged, unsigned and we only relied on some sense of direction and the sun to guide ourselves onto the right one, leading us to the Moare special campsite. After driving about 1.5 hours we saw a skittish group of Fringe Eared Oryx. We drove on, ultimately lost and arrived at Kisima. Ofcourse, we should've been left of Kisima but we never saw a road that turned left where it was indicated on the map!

An askari at the GAWT (George Adamson Wildlife Trust / Tony Fitzjohn) based in Kisima, put us onto a small path that he said led to Maore. We wouldn't have placed a bet on that one. It was unsigned, narrow and after the luck we had it seemed that it would lead us nowhere!
Luckily, past 6pm on the same road we met a TANAPA car that told us we were on the right path and should arrive at Maore in half an hour. As the sun set behind us, we drove through some very dusty/sandy roads and arrived at Maore ranger post one hour later. It was already dark and disappointedly we set up camp at the SPECIAL CAMPSITE which was hardly special owing to its very close proximity to the ranger post. (which could be seen from our tent) The campsite itself was barren and very windy. At night we heard an aardvark while we were already in the tent. I wish i had gotten out to see it! I missed my first aardvark sighting by 1 meter and a few winks.

Maore Special Campsite - Not very special for 50USD pppn. Ranger house at the back!

The next morning we dismantled our humble camp and reloaded the car as we drove to Komakota. We started early and intended on making a long circuit via Kifukua to Njiro and then by evening to Dindira. At Komakota we climbed the boulders and caused a frenzy in the hyrax society. A lesser Kudu remained oblivious to our presence until a herd of Impala below us suddenly became aware of our towering presence over them and ran for cover giving alarm calls. It was the most beautiful vista I had seen in a long time!

Driving on we passed turns that existed only on the map but never appeared until suddenly we came across a man on a bicycle and then a few. As usual, when we asked for directions they pointed us in the direction and told us we were on the right path. Nobody in Tanzania tells you they don't know. So eventually we reached a village and were out of the park. No exit sign, no post, no gate, no ranger. We drove past Mzina village for 60kms onto tarmac that led us to approach Same from the south 77kms later. A long and wasteful detour. Luckily, our 48 hour permit allowed us to re-enter through Zange entrance. We stayed around Dindira and made a short circuit around Babu's camp. By late afternoon we were at Dindira Special Campsite, nestled in tall acacia land. There were signs of Eland, Elephant and Aardvark. This campsite was definitely more special than Maore. A few beers, Martinis and fresh mangoes later we slept through a silent night.

The next morning, we stayed close to Dindira, visited Babu's Camp and then exited early to go towards Lake Chala.

All in all, Mkomazi is a great park to be away from the crowds of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro. Don't come here to see the big five. We saw plentiful signs of Lions and hyena but did not see them. This is a great park for seeing different antelope species. In 2 days we saw :

1. Fringe Eared Oryx
2. Gerenuk
3. Bush buck
4. Bush Duiker
5. Lesser Kudu
6. Grants gazelle
7. Eland
8. Dik Dik
9. Reedbuck
10. Impala
11. Waterbuck
12. Hartebeest
13. Steinbok

The problem is that this is a new park and the infrastructure is not fully developed. The roads and circuits in the north west area close to the park entrance are well developed and signed. As you go deeper into the park the roads are not signed and the roads that exist on the map do not exist on land. This obviously poses a problem to self drivers. For eg: we saw roads that were not on the map and then didn't see roads that were on the map. At one point after leaving the campsite at Maore we went on to Komakota which is a beautiful place with large boulders and rocks. We went over them to get a view of the park and it was a lovely morning!

As we drove on south from Komakota on the road that should have led us to a right turn that would take us to Njiro via Kifukua - the right turn never came (as shown on the map) so we continued driving south waiting for the turn to appear until we began to see people on bicycles and slowly entered a village.

So we had a 150km detour and wasted time and fuel which could've been spent in the park!

MAP with Comments - click to view

We loved Mkomazi for its wilderness, isolation and the dry bush. You could be in the park and not see another vehicle for a long time. We found it particularly easy to spot large herds of Eland (90 individuals appx) near Dindira. Also Elephants were spotted in the distance. Ofcourse, our the big excitement was spotting the Gerenuk and the Fringe Eared Oryx ( Besia species) which was the first for me. I also saw other antelope I had not seen before such as a bush duiker and reedbuck. We did not really ask for permission to visit the Rhinos or the dogs. We were just happy to be away from the mad crowds of the NCA and the Serengeti.

However, all said and done – as happy as we would be to return to Mkomazi in a heartbeat, this is not a park for everyone. People with great expectations will be disappointed. I think it will appeal to those wanting to be in nature and having no demands to see the Big 5 or whatever else. This is not the park you want to come to, to see lions, elephants, leopards, rhinos, buffaloes in 24 hours. It does not have the concentrations of wildlife like some of the northern parks. However, it has great character and a feeling of true wilderness. TANAPA seem to be doing well in maintaining the park especially in the circuits near the entrance. I suppose in time even the roads in the central areas will be better signed and the problem of the map vs. Ground reality will be attended to. Tony Fitzjohn's biggest achievement, in my opinion, is not the Rhinos or the dogs.... it was his ability and perseverance after strong blows to their efforts, time and good will to have this Game Reserve managed by the Wildlife Division to be finally gazetted into a National Park and therefore ensure its continuity and the preservation of it's resources for every common visitor to experience.

Keep patience, expect nothing, live the peace, enjoy the isolation, listen to the birds, follow the tracks – Mkomazi then, will not disappoint.